What Should You Inspect Before Swim Season Starts?

TL;DR: Before opening your pool for the season in PA or NJ, inspect these seven categories: pool shell and interior surface for winter damage, coping and tile for freeze-thaw movement, the barrier for hardware function and structural integrity, all equipment for proper operation, safety equipment condition, electrical components for damage, and the deck surface for new trip hazards. A pre-season inspection catches problems before they affect swimmer safety or grow into expensive mid-season repairs. Scott Payne Custom Pools recommends a professional inspection at opening for pools in their first 1–3 years and for any pool that wasn't properly closed.

The pre-season inspection is the most important maintenance event you can do to set up a safe, problem-free swim season. PA/NJ winters are hard on pool structures — freeze-thaw cycles move the ground, stress concrete joints, and can affect equipment that wasn't perfectly winterized. The inspection you do in April or early May determines whether you discover problems before they affect swimmers or discover them mid-season when a repair means no swimming.

Category 1: Pool Shell and Interior Surface

What to look for: - Cracks in the plaster or pebble aggregate interior — distinguish between hairline surface cracks (common, cosmetic) and structural cracks that extend through the finish into the gunite (less common, significant) - Staining from winter algae, organic material, or metal deposits - Rough patches in the surface that weren't there last fall - Any area that looks or feels different from surrounding surface

How to check: Walk the pool perimeter and look at the walls from multiple angles. Once the pool is filled, run your hand along the walls and floor in the shallow end. Tap walls with your knuckles and listen for hollow sounds that may indicate delamination.

What to do with findings: Hairline surface cracks and minor staining — note and monitor. Structural cracks or delamination — call your pool builder or service company before filling the pool.

Category 2: Coping and Tile

What to look for: - Coping pieces that have shifted, lifted, or cracked from freeze-thaw movement - Tiles that have come loose or cracked — press gently on each tile; it should feel solid and not flex - Waterline tile that has shifted out of alignment - Grout joints in coping that have opened up, allowing water infiltration

How to check: Sight along the coping from pool level — it should be straight and level. Physically press on coping pieces to confirm they're solidly mortared. Look at each tile and press gently.

What to do with findings: Loose or shifted coping requires re-mortaring before the pool fills — mortar repair in water is not effective. Loose tiles require re-setting with appropriate pool tile adhesive.

The expansion joint: Check the flexible sealant joint between the coping and the pool deck. This joint accommodates differential movement between the pool shell and the deck. If the sealant has cracked, pulled away, or is missing in sections, it needs to be refilled before water gets behind the coping. A flexible polyurethane sealant is the correct material.

Category 3: Pool Barrier Inspection

This is the most safety-critical inspection category.

What to check:

Gate hardware — the priority item: Open each gate fully and let it go. It should swing shut on its own and latch automatically without any assistance. Do this test from both sides of the gate. If the gate doesn't self-close, the hinge spring needs adjustment or replacement. If it doesn't self-latch, the latch mechanism needs adjustment, repair, or replacement.

Fence integrity: Walk the entire fence perimeter. Look for: - Boards, pickets, or panels that have shifted, warped, or pulled away from posts - Posts that have moved or leaned from frost heave - Gaps at ground level or at post connections that could allow a child to pass through - Horizontal members between 18 and 54 inches that provide climbing footholds (these should not exist in a compliant barrier)

Climbable objects: Check whether any furniture, planters, or equipment has been positioned near the fence exterior that could serve as a step up.

What to do with findings: Address any barrier deficiency before the pool is opened for use. A gate that doesn't self-latch is a non-compliant barrier. This is a safety repair, not a deferred maintenance item.

Category 4: Equipment Inspection

Pump: - Prime and start — confirm the pump achieves full flow within 30 seconds - Listen for normal operation (no grinding, rattling, or excessive vibration) - Check pump basket for debris - Confirm normal pressure at return jets

Filter: - Note pressure gauge reading at startup with clean filter - For cartridge filters: remove and inspect cartridges; replace if degraded - For sand filters: backwash before opening season - For DE filters: check grid condition and recharge with fresh DE

Heater: - Restore gas supply and test ignition - Confirm heater lights on first or second attempt - Verify water temperature rises with heater running - Check for any visible damage from winter

Automation system: - Confirm control panel is operational - Verify pump schedule is correctly programmed - Check app connectivity if applicable - Verify all controlled features (lights, heater, features) respond correctly

Salt system (if applicable): - Reinstall salt cell if removed for winter - Run system and confirm it's generating chlorine - Test salt level and add salt if below minimum

Category 5: Safety Equipment

Replace any safety equipment that is damaged, expired, or non-functional.

Category 6: Electrical Components

Visual inspection only — do not touch suspected damaged electrical components:

• Check conduit runs from house/subpanel to equipment for visible damage
• Verify subpanel enclosure is intact (not corroded or water-infiltrated)
• Check that underwater light lenses are intact (no cracks that could compromise the sealed fixture)
• Verify GFCI breakers in the subpanel are set to "on" and test that they trip when tested

If any electrical component shows visible damage, corrosion, or water infiltration: Call a licensed electrician before pool use. Do not assume electrical damage is cosmetic.

Category 7: Pool Deck and Surrounding Area

• Walk the entire deck surface looking for new trip hazards — heaved joints, cracked pavers, lifted stone corners
• Check steps for stable, level treads
• Inspect deck drainage to ensure water drains away from pool (not toward it)
• Check that landscaping hasn't encroached on deck drainage patterns over winter

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a pre-season pool inspection take?

A thorough pre-season self-inspection takes 1–2 hours. A professional inspection by a pool service technician typically takes 2–3 hours and includes water chemistry testing, equipment functional checks, and written documentation of findings. For pools in the first 1–3 years, or after a harsh winter, a professional inspection is worth the $200–$400 cost.

What if I find a crack in my pool shell at opening?

Distinguish between surface cracks in the plaster finish (common, usually cosmetic, address at next resurfacing) and structural cracks that penetrate through the plaster into the gunite shell (less common, require evaluation). Fill the pool with the understanding that water pressure will reveal whether a crack is weeping (indicating water loss). A pool that loses water beyond normal evaporation in the first week of operation needs professional assessment before regular use continues.

Is there anything I should inspect more carefully if we had an unusually harsh winter?

Coping and tile deserve extra attention after severe winters — freeze-thaw action is most aggressive on masonry joints and bond lines. Gate hardware is also more likely to have experienced freeze damage if water was trapped in moving parts. Check all water-contacting plumbing fittings at the equipment pad for cracks from freeze expansion, particularly if the pool closing was done in a hurry or if there's any question about whether plumbing was fully cleared.

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